Tea for the Yunnanese

What sort of imagery does one conger up when considering the behemoth population of China and the distinct tea drinking customs of each region? To an outsider perhaps the mere notion of the word Chinese creates a simple aggregate in which all people are defined by one oversimplified generalization: Han Chinese. This would be an unfortunate misunderstanding.


In order to understand the tea culture of Yunnan, or any of China’s major tea producing regions for that matter, one must first start with a look at the history and culture of the local people and the environment in which they coexist.


First, consider the geography and cultural diversity of Yunnan province. A landlocked province surrounded by three frontier borders nurturing a myriad of complex indigenous cultures. In total, Yunnan is made up of approximately 84% rugged, lush green covered mountains. And within these hinterlands reside 26 of China’s 56 recognized ethnic minorities.


Second, consider the pace of life and how people interact with one another. High altitude and intense year round sun play an important role in framing the personality of Yunnan’s population. Located at an average elevation of 1980 meters, life in Yunnan is laid-back and carefree.



Thirdly, consider the gastronomy of Yunnan. Unlike Beijing and Shanghai the cuisine is hot and oily. Yunnan people prefer strong flavors; spicy, sour and bitter are all fair game. And for those people living in the northern border territories vegetables are often sparse; meat is often the mainstay in many local diets.


Fourthly, consider the tumultuous and long-standing effects brought about by the social and political movements of the latter half of the Twentieth century. No one part of China went untouched by the major socio-economic and political changes of the last century. From the upper rungs of government to the most medial of daily tasks, the traditional customs of the Yunnanese were altered dramatically.


These four factors all play significant roles in defining the culture of tea drinking in Yunnan. In daily life it might look something like this;


The Land - In Yunnan the types of teas most often drunk have much to do with the climate and nature of the land. High altitiude, heavy sun and thick clay soil renders local varietals thick, robust and full of life. The teas in Yunnan have a punch, unlike the delicate teas found in Zhejiang and other coastal provinces. Puerh and bold green teas are classic Yunnan teas.


Pace of Life - Life for the most part is free of the airs and graces of the cosmopolitan east. From Kunming to the countryside it’s easy to enjoy the simple joys of social interaction. One of the most common ways of interacting with others is eating together, and within that comes drinking together; whether that be tea or alcohol.


Yunnan Gastronomy - Drinking tea provides an important function in aiding digestion. Stronger teas, such as large leaf greens and Puerh are perfect for breaking up the oils and settling the stomach after a hot meal. So bring on the bold varietals, none of that light green stuff!


A Changing Culture - The charm of tea drinking is similar to the way Kunming people eat. It’s a bit more rustic; less gongfu tea and more thermoses. The political affects of the late twentieth century largely changed traditional cultures. Today, Yunnan is a widely simple and rustic environment. Tea for the ??? (common people) doesn’t leave too much room for elaborate exhibitions and lofty preludes.

So in the end tea for the Yunnanese is a drink and that’s that!